( Adi ) "to tie" and ( Re ) "to dye"

Adire is a textile consisting of resist-dyed cloth produced and worn by the Yoruba people of southwest Nigeria in West Africa. The Yoruba word ADIRE translate to "tied and dyed. This textile plays a dual role as a fashion statement and visual language. Formally known to be a family business. Mothers passed the techniques down to their female children and the wives of their sons. 

Traditionally, Adire was dyed indigo (dark blue) and it is still the most popular color. Indigo dye is made from 'Elu- Aja' leaves also called Lonchocarpus Cynescens. The leaves are grounded, shaped into balls and sundried. It is then mixed with water and a few more things. Allowed to ferment within four weeks to six months. The most popular colors are blue, red, orange and green.

In Yoruba history, it is said that Orunmila, the Yoruba deity of wisdom and divination was divinely inspired to create patterned dyed cloths using the designs of certain birds. Agbe, Aluko, Odidere, Lekeleke and Agbufon.

The origin of Adire is said to be unknown, however there is a battle between the people of Abeokuta (Ogun State) and Osun State about where Adire was invented. Adire was first created from a hand-woven cloth called Kijipa. Women were at the forefront of weaving the fabric and indigo dying them using Oniko method. 

Between 1880 and 1925, Adire artists started using Teru (calico) for their products due the importation of English cotton products. The British government in Nigeria heavily taxed the Kijipa fabric and left the imported fabrics untaxed. This led to an expansion of Adire industry. A new method production became the starch resist method called Eleko. 

By the 1930's another innovation was birthed with Adire being done on fabrics such as Brocade and Velvet. In the 1940's and 1950's there was a decline in production of Adire due to World War ll. The universal free education policy which was all children had to go to school affected apprenticeship. After the war, new brightly colored chemical dyes were introduced. This was a new beginning for Adire tradition. In the 1960's Adire became a national identity for Lagos elites who were protesting against European values. 

At times you will hear a person refer to Adire as Kampala. This is directly tied back to the Biafra War peace talks. A modern, more cheaply produced form of Adire was called Kampala". Due to it becoming popular at the exact time of the Kampala Peace Conference held to settle the Biafra War in Nigeria. Around 1968 this new style of tie-dye fabric was blowing up. It's worth noting Adire and Kampala are often confused but technically different. True traditional Adire is handmade resist-dyed cloth. While Kampala often refers to the more mass produced or factory printed version. Fascinating how history gets woven into everyday life!