Traditionally, Adire was dyed indigo (dark blue) and it is still the most popular color. Indigo dye is made from 'Elu- Aja' leaves also called Lonchocarpus Cynescens. The leaves are grounded, shaped into balls and sundried. It is then mixed with water and a few more things. Allowed to ferment within four weeks to six months.
The production of indigo-dyed Adire involves the input of two female specialists-dyers (Alaro) with control production and marketing of Adire, and decorators (Aladire), who create the resist patterns. In the oldest forms of Adire, two basic resist techniques are used to create soft blue or white designs to contrast with a deeply saturated indigo-blue background. The process typically consists of folding, twisting, pleating, or crumpling fabric or a garment and binding with string or rubber bands, followed by application of dye(s).The decorator works with a 1 x 2-yard fabric rectangle as a design field, making two identical pieces to sew together creating a square cloth most commonly used for a woman's wrapper. Most wrappers have repeated pattern all-over created with one or more resist techniques using no one focal point of interest. The motifs used in Adire and the labels attached to them reflect the concerns of indigenous and contemporary Yoruba life: the world of nature, religion, philosophy, everyday life and notable events.
Adire Oniko
This process involves trying raffia hundreds of individual corn kernels or spiral designs knows as "Alakete" because it comes out like the raffia mats used for covering ones head in the sun. The ring-shaped pattern created by the thread can be seen in areas that have been untreaded. This randomized design completed in intervals creates a big tie representing a moon with surrounding stars. it is known as "Oniwaro ati osupa" (stars and moonlight).
Adire Alabere
Stitching raffia onto the fabric in a pattern before dyeing small portions of it can be pulled up into peaks and then tied with raffia or thread at the base to make bunched areas once the thread is removed post-dye it will reveal a ring-shaped undyed area. A portion of the cloth can wrap over a seed, small stone or other object before being tied with thread at its base.
Adire Eleko
Applied with chicken feathers or stencils for crisp lines using cassava paste. Which acts as a resist when the cloth is dipped into the indigo dye (the more dips the deeper the blue). Allowing for wonderful hand drawn batiks. Before finalizing the cloth for sale. It will be hit with a mallet, softening it and creating a lovely sheen, owing to the indigo dye.
Adire Alabela
Designs are created by folding, crumpling, randomly sprinkling, splashing or stamping hot wax onto a cloth prior to dyeing. Hot wax is substituted for the indigenous cassava paste as a resist agent.
Today, modern multi-colored Adire uses simple techniques, with hot wax or paraffin serving as resist agents instead of the traditional cassava paste.
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